Traditional clothes, female clothes: Pastira

The traditional female costume is called Pastira’s dress and is divided into various parts: 

Skirt: It is made of thick cotton, with a fabric called “canícula” ,which is typical of Jaén since the end of the 18^th Century. The colour used is light blue, with horizontal white, fine stripes or squares.

The skirt has a detachable piece made of percale or fine wool with various patterns, including plaid or plain, and it also has cotton or thread string, which is usually white or blue. 

Pocket: It is located underneath the waist, below the apron, on the right or left. It is usually made of embroidered damask fabric in a variety of colours.

Apron: It is made of “canícula” fabric too. It differs from the skirt in the stripes, which are vertical or it has little squares, it is always adorned with a piece of cloth with horizontal lines. It is usually knotted at the back and should be shorter that the skirt. 

Scarf: It is usually made by percale or wool. On special occasions, the scarf is replaced by a Manila shawl. It is usually light brown, but it may be different colours.

Almilla (Jacket): It is a bodice with long sleeves, a v-neck and is made of fine wool. It has a pad attached to the waist, called a “borriquete”, it is used to link the petticoat and the underskirt.

Cloth Underskirt: It is usually red and shorter than the skirt. It has a detachable piece made of percale or wool on the back.

Cotton Underskirt: It is used in the summer, instead of the red one. It usually has white or blue and white stripes. It is shorter than the skirt and it also has a detachable piece.

Footwear: Black shoes, usually medium heeled court shoes in leather. Poor people used to wear slippers

Mantilla (Shawl): Its is usually made of light cloth,is is called "jaenciana" or "granadilla". The colour is usually red with velvet black borders. It is typically attached to the hair which is combed up in a bun.

Accessories:

-Hairstyle: The hair is parted in the middle or on one side. The hair can also be in a bun. We can see different types of bun: an “alpargata” bun, with a thick plait or with chignons. We can also have an “alpargata” bun without chignons or a plait.

-Jewellery: Gold with emeralds, diamonds or pearls. 

-Tights: Everyday clothes: fishnets tights. Special occasions and celebrations: fishnet tights just below the knee.

-Petticoat: White, made of thread and very flared.

-Pants: white, knee-length and with a little ruffle at the end.